Wednesday, April 05, 2006

here's hoping I can upload some photographs...

attempt one!!

some of the JSS boys

Independence Day parade, children preparing to march.




the chickens

the good and the bad of the college inter-house athletics competition high jump - the sports ground is the football pitch as well. note the lack of training shoes!

Learning Sisaala: No. 1

During in country training I began Sisaala language classes, causing much confusion when arriving in Tumu having been taught much of the wrong dialect. Now I have joined a couple of the Danes, Lina and Rasmus who have started taking lessons here in Tumu. I told Ajara (16 year old from across the way) this and she has taken it upon herself to test me regularly between each session. Anyway I have to share some of the words we learnt this week; prices in cedis.

It started off so simply:

100 cedis Siidi zכlכ
200 Keteku

Then its starts to get a little complicated

500 Keteku balia ari siidi zכlכ (200x2+100)
1000 keteku banכŋ (200x5)
2000 keteku fii (200x10)
4000 keteku mara (200x20)
5000 keteku mara ari fii (200x20+200x10)

Still with me – because now mara changes to mahiŋ

10000 keteku mahiŋ balia ari fii (200x20x2+200x10)
15000 keteku mahiŋ batori ari fii ari banכŋ (200x20x3+200x10+200x5)
20000 keteku zכlכ (200x100)
30000 keteku zכlכ ari mahiŋ balia ari fii (200x100+200x20x2+200x10)

And so it went on. Lina test some of these prices on her watchmen and they had to spend a few minutes to work them out. It seems that sisaala prices are not used in Tumu, they all know English numbers and as the language changes a few miles out of Tumu I think I will just leave it to the pros and play the white person card when it comes to buying things, and anyway as a white person I will never be sold anything for less than 1000 so there is no point even learning the simple prices...

Donkeys, goats, cows and chickens…

These are the animals I share my neighbourhood with. I still crack up every time the herd of cows skim past my windows and it is funny that I go to sleep listening to donkeys eye-oreing instead of cars and sirens passing. When I arrived I had a night watchman – a chicken who sat on my veranda gate. She has now been joined by six of her friends, I wouldn’t mind but they do leave an awful mess and there is the dreaded bird flu loaming… They are so funny to watch. The other night I was sitting out on my veranda well into the evening, along came three of the chickens, I am not sure if they saw me but the fly up to their usual perch. I shooed them away, and they wandered off. They must have had a tactic discussion as a couple of minutes later they clucked back. This time they crept past me – I am sure checking to see if I was watching and then pretended they had found some tasty things to eat on the ground before making a new ascent on the side of my veranda. I shooed them away again. They didn’t give up for a long while. I felt as if I was watching Chicken Run. It kept me entertained for ages, that says a lot doesn’t it, to spend my evenings laughing at SAS trained chickens, oh how my life has changed…

First outing out of Tumu

Finally after a month of being in Tumu I decided to venture out.
Destination: Wa
Mode of Transport: Tro Tro
Travel Time: 3 5 hours
This trip was to be an overnight stay in Wa to catch up on emails and meet some other VSO’s staying with Pete and his housemates, Hazel and Lesley. Pete is one of the VSO’s who came over on my flight. I went on this trip with Katherine one of the Canadian VSO’s in Tumu. She was showing me the Tro Tro ropes. We met at 6am at the station in Tumu and lucky for us there was a Tro Tro ready to go, we managed to get the last two seats. The roads are pretty bad and the condition of the transport is questionable, but both is something I have to get used to. We broke down a few times fixed things along the way and had to plug the water tank up and finally arrived in Wa about 11am. The ironic thing is that we got stopped at the police stop on arriving in Wa and the Tro Tro was thoroughly checked over – not for road worthiness but to make sure that the indicators and lights were working!!!!! – the police were after some cash.

Coming from Tumu, Wa seems like a bussing metropolis, so many people and so many cars. They even have traffic lights and street names!

Our mission for the trip was Internet so we headed straight for the café. It was great to finally check emails even though time was short. We met with Pete, Hazel and Lynda (Dutch VSO) and went for a drink and socialise. Tumu only has a handful of Folies, there are so many more in Wa, I am sure I looked like a local child who just stood and pointed and stared at the passing Folies.

Unfortunately our trip came to an end before we had a chance to check emails for a second time, we had to head back to the station in the morning to head home. We had an extra passenger on our return, Angel, a dog that Katherine was rehoming in Tumu so it could run free without the chance of being chopped. We tried the Tro Tro’s but one had just left and the next wouldn’t be for hours, so we bargained a taxi down to a reasonable price to take us home. Lucky we did as Angel was not at all well on the journey and I’m sure that the Tro Tro passengers wouldn’t have been too appreciative of it. Anyway the return trip took 3½ hours with only a couple of breakdowns. I am not sure what was more comfortable, Tro Tro or taxi, pretty close in the discomfort zone!!

Next trip Bolga and Tamale…

3 lesson plans, 25 classes…

And there I was panicking before I came to Ghana that I would struggle with my lesson planning and teaching secondary level maths – no need to as I only have to plan three lessons a week none of which are maths – phew!! My challenge is not the prep but managing to sound fresh for each class. I teach 16 classes of DBE students (teacher training students) of about 8-9 per class. This week I presented an hour long PowerPoint presentation titled What is the Internet? Explaining what a network is, what the internet is, what you can do on the internet and how it works – all theory because you know we don’t actually have the internet in Tumu. By Friday at 2pm I was exhausted. Next week I am sitting back and let them work by using an interactive programme especially designed for Ghana by the BBC to give them a better understanding of the Internet and email, however, there is only so far you can take it before needing to actually use the net! – maybe we will be lucky and it will arrive before the end of the semester!

The students are so eager to learn, the first week I had a few problems wit lateness, but when I told them that if they were late they wouldn’t be allowed in class I have had no problems since. They only get a one hour class a week so time is tight. We often get the added bonus of ‘lights off’ (power cut) which is great fin when you work with computers – teaching theory is manageable, but practical stuff – no chance! Lights off lasts about for about 15-20mins, which can be unfortunate especially when it seems to happen to the same class each time, I will have to come up with some fillers for those times. The students then ask for extra classes, but at the moment I have little free time, I feel for them so need to look into some alternatives…

Independence Day 6th March

From the moment I arrived in Tumu all the children in town have been practicing marching. This is every morning about 8am. They march to the accompaniment of a drum and the march itself is almost a dance, a quick step and their arms swing very high. They also sing a song.

The children who live around me came to visit one Saturday morning and took great pride to show me their marching on my veranda for about half an hour saluting me as they went past me.

All this was in preparation for Independence Day, 6th March, to celebrate independence from Britain in 1957. I tried to find out why marching but no one has been able to give me a full answer, I guess its just tradition.

The day itself was quite an experience. I had been told that it would start about 8:30 so got to the town community centre in plenty of time. Pretty much everyone from Tumu had come to watch and each school had about 50 or so children marching. It was market day too so there was a real buzz about town. A covered stage had been erected for the officials to sit and watch but no other shade was on offer. The day was introduced by a man on a LOUD speaker – I think he forgot to switch it on!!, and was followed by a half hour speech, very short for Ghanaian standards. Then the marching began – 2 hours later they were still marching. Finally the children finished and the local traders joined in. The hairdressers put scissors and combs in their hair, the mechanics carried exhaust pipes, the butchers’ meat cleavers and the seamstresses marched with sewing machines on their heads. They had all been on the Pito (local brew – I have yet to try) all morning, so had a great time, remembering their childhood marches.
Then it finished and we were finally able to find some shade and have a cold drink. It was a fun day and I took some photos, maybe I’ll even be able to post them online sometime…

Tumu: the early weeks. (Written beginning March 2006)

Tumu is a sleepy town spread out over a few kilometres. It has a daily market consisting of a few stalls of tomatoes, onions, beans and rice. I have been assured that this is a seasonal thing and soon when the rains come so will more choice of vegetable. There is another market that is held every 6th day and traders come from all over the region to sell their wares. It is bright and chaotic but somehow organised. It was market day the day I arrived so I had a false first impression of town. The streets were crowded and noisy. Returning the following day I found the real Tumu; sleepy, quiet and laidback – apart from weekend nights when sound systems are blasting from every bar and chop stall.

Tumu is a pretty little town compared to others in the surrounding area and well maintained. TUTCO where I am based is about 1km out of town on the road leading to Burkina Faso, on a road that is part tarmac and part dust. The entrance to the college campus is an avenue of mango trees. These mangos are beginning to ripen, however I will be lucky to get any as every child, student and teacher gets great pleasure in grabbing every mango in reach and also those not. Then a vast number of devices are used to retrieve them, from stone and stick throwing to climbing up and also some very developed wooden grabbing contraptions. Its like a drug, the children need to get their daily mango fix!! Most of the mangos aren’t even ripe yet. The local children do come to my house and donate some of their pickings to me, so hopefully I won’t go too short!

My house was described to me by the VSO office in Accra as a cute little house. It is quite cute. It has two bedrooms a living room large kitchen wetroom and toilet and massive hall connecting all rooms. I have a tap and shower in the wetroom, but no running water in the kitchen. The place is somewhat sparse of furniture, but I am going to try and organise some basic things to be made to make it a bit more homely.

There have been a number of things to get used to here, the main one being the water. It started off rather shakily with that. I was told that the water would run for two days and then be off for one so that the tank could be refilled. This was not the case to begin with and was off more than on. I rather overreacted and got a bit too obsessed with it. Now it has calmed down into a routine of being on first thing and during the day and then off most evenings. This I can cope with and feel much more relaxed about it all.

Food has been interesting. I have tried most of the local specialities, some I like and some I think I will have to learn to appreciate I’m sure. Others I am working up to trying such as TZ which is a thick porridge like food. I like Fu Fu and Banku, the soups and stews that accompany them are pretty hot from chilli pepper, also very oily. I can eat them in moderation. They do great plantain and yam chips here, which are a good snack from the chop stalls. Meat is fun – I think the staple diet meat is goat and ‘fowl’ – chicken or guinea fowl, whichever is around. There are many cows so beef is also widely available, I have kept away from the intestine soup… there are some things that I just feel I won’t get around to trying. I haven’t cooked meat at home yet, I think I will stick to the veggie option until I am more aware of what I am buying.

Town itself has lots of little shops most of which sell the same things ‘duck’ soap, plastic containers and tomato purée. The other day I really needed a sugar drink and obsessed about getting a orange fanta only to find that there were none available. Eventually I tracked down some warm overpriced cans – which I promptly bought and savoured a few hours later after they had cooled in my fridge.

There are a few bars and the other VSO’s in town have reintroduced Folie night. Folie means white person in Sisaala and little children take great delight in football chanting folie, folie, folie whenever I cycle past, they only stop when I turn and wave, which, at the moment is no small feat. I am still getting used to cycling again and can just about take one hand off the handlebar, but not long enough for a wave!

I have begun teaching the JSS classes (Junior Secondary School). The children range from about 12 to 16+. I have 5 PC’s and the classes are kept to 10 children, they are all really well behaved and eager to learn. The JSS2 class have been using computers for a little while now and know basic word processing skills. The JSS1 class have only just begun. They are like sponges and can already create a folder and write a few lines in word and save their work. The hardest thing to master has been the mouse, but even that they are beginning to grasp. A few teething problems with remembering left from right, but that’s normal.

As for me I am sure I have offended more than a few people with the left and right thing. It is bad manners and disrespectful to hand anything to another person using the left hand, being a leftie I keep doing so. They also eat with their right hand. I am getting better, but it will be a slow process…